Havana – Real Fabrica de Tabacos Partagas

Perhaps the most famous export from Cuba is the Cuban cigar. Due to the US trade embargo, they’re notoriously expensive and rare in that country. In other countries without this problem, they’re still expensive and a bit of a luxury. There are a number of cigar factories in Havana that you can visit. I went to the Partagas factory, maker of the world famous Monte Christo cigar.

The factor is located just behind the Capitolio building. At first, I thought it was just a shop, but it’s the real deal – a fully functioning cigar factory, right in the centre of town. They run tours every fifteen minutes and they’re incredibly popular. I’m not sure if that reflects people’s interests in cigars, or a lack of something better to do.

The tour take you through the whole process of generating a cigar. This is a pretty in your face tour. It’s not a tour where you watch the process from a railing overlooking the factory floor. The process involves a whole lot of people sitting around at desks with bundles of materials. You walk in amongst them all and the machinery. I doubt this sort of tour would last long in other countries. The first time someone slipped or was pushed into a machine, it would be over. It was fun though, as you got to see things up very close!

The process of making a cigar turns out to be pretty simple. A bunch of dried tobacco leaves are bundled together and then another leaf is wrapped around them. This is then compressed for an hour or so. One more leaf is wrapped around the cigar, then it’s time for a logo to be stuck on and they’re ready for boxing.

The skill of the people involved is pretty amazing. With a great deal of dexterity, they select their leaves, wrap them quickly and pop out a cigar. In a rare example of capitalism, the workers are paid based upon how many cigars they make in a day. This is a great encouragement for people to churn them out.

Whilst the work of the people is amazing to watch, the conditions they work under are not. The rooms are large, extremely hot and full of tobacco dust. It’s hot and smelly and the people are worked to the bone.

One thing I noticed straight away, is that everyone working on the cigar floor was young. There were no old people. One explanation is that young people are more nimble and able to churn the cigars out. The other explanation is that the conditions are so bad, that no one is able to last that long before becoming sick and having to retire. I think it’s a little bit of both. I definitely wouldn’t want to work there.

Apparently, cigars have the interesting ability to transfer nicotine into your body just by holding them in your hand. With cigarettes, you have to burn them and inhale them. Just handling cigars does the same. It makes you wonder what rolling cigars all day can do to your health! There was also a lot of finger licking going on in the process. The net result can’t be that healthy!

Apart from the health issues, the tour was quite interesting. I had no idea that’s how a cigar was made. There was also a bit of comic relief. As we wandered around the factory with our guide, another shady character followed us. Every time the guide was out of sight, he tried to sell us cigars. He was quite persistent, but as soon as the guide came back, he scurried off. Funny man!

The tour ended, as all good tours do, in the gift shop. Getting into the spirit of the tour, I bought a single cigar. This was the very first time I have ever bought a tobacco product. I felt dirty! 

Despite the working conditions, it seems that no trip to Havana is complete without a trip to the cigar factory. There was a steady stream of tourists into the factory, so I guess it must be fun!